Fehmarn is Germany's third-largest island after Rügen and Usedom and not only perfect for family holidays, but also the hotspot for windsurfers. And Fischland-Darß-Zingst was already a sought-after holiday destination for young and old in GDR times - anyone who could get hold of a holiday place there was lucky. Judith Rakers discovers both islands in her usual manner through the people she meets there.